I've been hunting for cars since November, but I really haven't been able to negotiate a good deal on either new or used cars. I've tried meeting lots of dealers from Bellevue, Kirkland, Auburn and Renton, but no one even seems to budge, even when I try common tactics like comparing between dealers or offering to buy on spot.
I am not trying to low-ball dealers, but I at least want a decent deal like what many others seem to be getting (especially on 2017 models!). I don't want to be that guy who paid $2k more for the same car!
For context, I'm looking at sedans around $20k. Can y'all share some good deals you have got, and how you went about it?
I'm half inclined to just end this frustration by paying up the internet price they quote. In fact I wouldn't mind paying the same, if everyone had transparent prices
- Microsoft Fjord25Tip : wait for the end of a month, or if possible, a quarter. That is when sellers are the most flexible!
- Amazon / Eng BooooThe best thing you can do is drive to Everett and other far places to get one.
The stealerships in Seattle, Eastside get too much free money thrown at them to care about cutting deals.
Heck, if it's a new car, buy one online in Portland and drive it up. (Edited cuZ I love Portland :))
- Microsoft EZ123456Just use Costco. Good simple price. May not be the absolute best but pretty decent.
- $20k sedan has low margin from the start and you want to lowball them in a booming economy. And then you’re surprised at your lack of success. Dipshit.
- Adobe rokY17First step - go to true car , see the factory invoice price.
Second step - go towards the end of the quarter and ask for that price
Third step - profit 🎉
- @Hal905 - invoice is about the best number out there for cost but agreed that it’s not actual cost. Publicly published incentives should be subtracted from it to get closer to real cost. You won’t hear about holdback or anything going on behind the scenes, but there’s this illusion that dealers make a massive profit on every car and as a percentage, it’s really not. It’s a much lower percentage than most things you buy that you can’t negotiate and cars are sold at a much lower volume. It’s not a scam... it’s how people who work at dealerships put food on their tables.
- Oh I agree. The scam is that people think they see the invoice and that’s the dealer price. It’s not. But most dealers make their money out of the service department not new car sales. Which is why trying to squeeze the lowest price out of the dealer is a lost cause. Especially in a booming Seattle economy
- Microsoft lzmz70Washington is not the best state to buy cars particularly used cars, I would recommend to extend search to portland area. I bought my car in bay area, the same car costs 10% higher with more miles in seattle area
- I think this is because stealer ships advertise their bait car in a close market then try to upsale once you drive all the way there. We got a great deal on a car near Seattle, we're in Portland and it was the obviously bait car, but I printed the ad and when I showed up with it they were pissed and said they didn't have it anymore, but i pushed back and said it was just listed today. They eventually found it still th back of the lot. I got the car for a good 7k off anywhere else I could find.
- Yahoo ghhhbbbgfhmy friend got an accord 2018 sport this week for 22800. its a lot less than true car or kelly blue book so dont trust these blindly
- If you are on the verge of just giving in and buying with whatever they are giving, I would suggest go through Costco. It will probably be cheaper with zero hassle. After trying for 3 weeks to reduce car prices on my own dealing with dealers, I found out that Costco price was around 350 more than what I paid. I would any day trade 350 bucks for 3 weeks of my time.
- Buying end of month often helps. Buying at end of model year helps a lot more as dealers and manufacturers are trying to clear out the prior model year so the manufacturers are offering incentives and the dealers are discounting deeper. Different models cycle at different times of the year but you’ll usually be able to find some media publication to tell you when it will happen... bad news for you I think most already have.
Some makes and models are rarely discounted and others are frequent. Some categories (i.e. SUVs) fluctuate with the economy and gas prices.
I usually look at a few classified sites and identify a list of candidates. Then, I check the dealer’s website to see if the car is there and what price it is (prices might differ across sites). Then, I call dealers from the narrowed list and say “if I came in and bought today, what price would you offer.” If they ask if I’m shopping around, I say yes but otherwise it’s just implied and they know.
Keep in mind that the margin dealers make on cars really isn’t that great compared to most industries and they’re just trying to make money... some of them are more honest than others but not all of them are as bad as they have a reputation to be.
Also, a few additional things...
1) someone mentioned AutoNation above. They’re nationally overpriced and stack stuff into the deal that make it more expensive overall than other dealers.
2) If you’re comfortable selling your car private party, you’ll get more for it but it takes more time and hassle. If you’re trading it in, use KBB Instant Cash Offer and CarMax appraisals as a starting point of negotiation with the dealer. If you get a tax benefit from trading your car in vs. selling it outright (I don’t recall if this is a state or national thing), do the math and know what your bottom line is of what you will accept to include your current car in the sale with the dealer you’re buying from vs. selling it later.
3) Have a sizable down payment. Don’t be upside down. Don’t get stuck paying gap insurance.
4) Extended warranties are usually silly to buy on new cars that are from reliable brands (Japanese and Korean, mostly).
5) Line up financing offer(s) in advance so you have something to compare the dealer’s numbers to. If you have great credit, you will get close to or at the advertised rate from banks. Compare the advertised rates and be aware that some banks use a soft credit pull and some use a hard pull to give you the initial rate... the hard pull credit inquiry will ding your credit so if you’re going to do a hard pull, wait until the day or weekend that you buy and it won’t hurt you at the dealership from a credit rating standpoint.
- Also, when you’re actually at the dealership, your biggest negotiation tool is getting up and walking out.
Regarding lease returns/used cars being dramatically cheaper at times, sometimes this is true and sometimes not. Some cars hold their value so well used that buying new is $1000 or less difference vs. low mileage used. Do your homework.
- HERE / Product . ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°I bought my last car for $1000 under dealer invoice. Go to True Car to find the lowest price, and get a couple dealerships to compete for your business at the end of the quarter. In my case, I had a smaller dealership who needed to meet quota to get their rebate, so they lost money on the car to get their factory rebate, and came out ahead that way.
- Expedia jimbobbeerNew Q7, 6% off MSRP + 1,000 loyalty. Prius for commuter with 7-8% off MSRP also. Negotiated both over email and told them about competing offers (have to be real, otherwise they will call your bluff).
When presenting competing options, consider cross shopping dealers AND brands in the segment.
Walked in and out with the cars with zero hassle or nagging about "extras"
Make sure you're negotiating on the total price of car with options. Do NOT deal with monthly payments when talking, only final price.
Start with a thousand or so under MSRP and suggest that price to them, along with some pricing from true car/Edmunds as data points. This works well with competing dealers. Go back and forth till you feel comfortable or one bows out.
Also, do not tell them if you're paying cash or financing till you have a price in writing (email or whatever). That lowers the incentive to budge on price if you're not going to try finance through them.
Do NOT visit the dealer till you have a price settled. Test drive cars, but don't go with your mind set on buying it there and then. They will do everything in their power to send you home with one :)
- Microsoft PinkFloyd7Ugh don't be so frugal. A few hundred here and there don't matter. You're making six figures ffs
- New QarM42Take my advice from Ohio. I sell cars. Most dealerships put their no hassle no haggle best price online on their website or third party sites. If we don’t, nobody shows up to buy the car since nearly everyone using the internet to shop anymore. If you are trying to negotiate a used car comparing it with another one, good luck. Nobody cares about you using that. No two used cars are exactly the same. The internet quote is the best price right up front, stop being optimistic and just buy the damn car you want for the price you were quoted and quit stroking off salespeople and wasting their time.
- If u don't have Costco membership, ask a friend who has, to get a quote. If it's cheap, you can buy ur own membership for ~50 bucks and buy car thru them