I think it's good at all 3 of those things. Also the mission is much more interesting than 90%+ of companies imo.
Total compensation is not great. Base salary is low, with no bonuses, and you have to hope the options will be worth something. WLB is generally great, though it's team dependent, and some people take advantage get away with doing little to no work. Culture depends on team. Engineering is not great, for example. Lots of teams duplicating work because directors build silos. Not much opportunity to work on the stuff you'd think would be interesting and unique; other departments get all that.
I wouldn't group up all of eng like that. I'm pretty happy
Do u have the freedom to pick up projects that interest u?
If it's a project that management has committed to, and it falls close to what you already do, yes. If it's something you think needs doing, you will need to convince management first. If it's something that another team would be responsible for, then it really depends on the managers are directors involved. Sometimes it's fine. But I've also seen engineers get frozen out of projects where their skills and experience would be of great help due to politics or ego of managers.
How is security team at 23andme
TC seemed low compared to other big firms. And just my experience interviewing but found a really wide range of characters. One guy was one of the most arrogant tech bro I've met in the valley. Seemingly over compensating, which doesn't bode well for quality of eng.